Enoteca I Trulli

If you don't crave the fanfare of a multi-course meal, but rather a glass of wine and a light dish, NYC's wine bars were made for you. Every day it seems that another excellent restaurant has spun off a cozy, informal lounge. Al Di La Vino and Bar @ Etats Unis spring to mind, as does the lovely little Enoteca I Trulli.

For some reason, I've always found I Trulli to be on the ascetic side (you won't find four-cheese-anything there). Perhaps the cuisine of Apulia is characteristically light? I don't know, but after all my holiday indulgences, I thought I should (temporarily) practice moderation.

I sat down at a wooden table inscribed with various wine labels, although there were still seats at the bar. While sipping a glass of Montepulciano, I noticed that the menu was a somewhat abbreviated version of the one next door. The ravioli of the day was chicken and mushroom, but I decided on a simple bowl of chewy cavatelli. The flour dumplings were very lightly sauced with broccoli rape, garlic and olive oil; a few toasted almond slivers provided an interesting crunch. Almost no sauce remained once I was finished with the generous portion of pasta.

Naturally, I wanted to see the dessert menu. I opted for the lightest selection - the assortment of sorbets. (Of course, I had to bring an additional dessert home for the hungry companion. A dense, warm chocolate hazelnut cake was greatly appreciated.) The sorbet dessert featured three flavors: fruity quince, tangy pear and bracing, almost bitter (in a good way!) grapefruit. A sprig of mint, some grapefruit sections and a homemade cookie garnished the bowl. Next time, I intend to sample one of the intriguing wine/dessert pairings; various wines are matched with pecorino, sweet pasta and homemade biscotti.

Enoteca I Trulli: 122 East 27th St., (212) 481-7372.

BLT Fish

I thought that the transit strike would empty out the restaurants, but BLT Fish was as crowded as ever last night. My friends and I sat down a little before 10 p.m. We'd originally intended to eat at the downstairs BLT Fish Shack, but the menu from upstairs just spoke to us (as did the relative quietude).

Before our chosen selections, we were presented with an amuse-bouche of smoked salmon and finely minced apple with creme fraiche. We were then surprised by the deceptively humble cheddar-chive biscuits, which in my opinion, were one of the most memorable foods of the evening - moist, buttery and flaky all at once. I tore my steaming biscuit apart and slathered it with butter and maple syrup. As I think back on the amazing popovers at BLT Steak, I wonder if a BLT Bakery could be next for Tourondel.

The grilled Ecuadorian shrimp appetizer was sold out, so I ordered the spicy tuna tartare. It was similar to BLT Steak's rendition in that the square of tuna was served on a layer of avocado. However, it included a dollop of American caviar and was creamy with spicy mayonnaise. Its flavor did not include a hint of soy, but rather zesty lemon.

The menu, which features whole fish by the pound, included sea bass and Cantonese-style red snapper. But when I heard that only one Mediterranean loup de mer remained, I had to order it. My friends enjoyed the four plump grilled Maine sea scallops and the Alaskan king salmon steaks with tangy ginger ketchup and mild roasted garlic aioli. My own loup de mer arrived already filleted; although the fish was moist and rich-flavored, I prefer the spectacle of a whole fish. Not to mention, it fills the plate!

Our chosen sides were the Parmesan gnocchi, baked fennel, garlic mashed potatoes, garlic spinach and grilled asparagus. All were exceedingly rich! The asparagus was topped with thin slices of Parmesan, buttered bread crumbs decorated the fennel, and the gnocchi were half-an-inch deep in cream.

By now our stomachs were groaning. Naturally, I was the only one to order a dessert (the others were satisfied by the complimentary green apple cotton candy and petits fours). Deliberating between the lime millefeuilles and the caramelized meringue, I finally decided on the pumpkin tart. The accompanying ice cream provided an interesting cognitive dissonance; expecting a mouthful of cold ice cream, I was hit with a rush of hot spice. I would've loved to take home a pint of it! And it was only fitting that having begun my meal with a crunchy-topped tuna tartare, I would end it with a crunchy hazelnut-topped pumpkin tart.

Next stop, BLT Prime!

BLT Fish: 21 West 17th St., (212) 691-8888.

Gifts For The Gourmet

Are you still stumped for holiday gift ideas? Here's a present any foodie friend will appreciate: an international cooking class. The New School teaches everything from a "Roast Suckling Pig Workshop" to a "Paris Bistro Feast." But if your friend is more interested in dining out, the "BEHIND THE SCENES AT THE GREAT RESTAURANTS OF NEW YORK ™" series may be right up his alley. (Or, if his table manners are less than adequate, you might want to enroll him in "Dining Etiquette for Adults.")

A Regular's Lament

I was becoming increasingly devoted to the Japanese fusion cuisine of Komegashi (928 Broadway, (212) 475-3000). I loved the thick, rectangular slabs of grilled skewered fish and the unexpected flavors and textures in the maki. The Valrhona chocolate souffle accompanied by homemade maple, vanilla and orange-chocolate ice cream was a treat I looked forward to. And there was that "regular" treatment... when the waitress noticed that I'd left a piece of sushi untouched, she would ask the chef to prepare any fish I wanted to replace it.

So, you can imagine how disconcerted I was to learn that Komegashi will be no more after next week. The restaurant has been sold. Apparently, four out of five NYC restaurants close within five years. But I wonder, what is the reason for this particular failure? Were the guests expecting a more traditional Japanese cuisine? Were they put off by the beef jus/red wine/soy dipping sauce that was served with the skewered meats and fish, or did they not appreciate the sprinkling of sansho pepper atop the freshwater eel? It's true that the offerings were not inexpensive; a "foamed" miso soup with fried tofu was $6. But many New Yorkers willingly pay premium prices for quality Japanese food.

Presentation was certainly not the problem; nor was decor. So, I surmise that the location did Komegashi in. Just one block east, Park Avenue South teems with crowded restaurants; I couldn't even get a seat at Haru tonight. But there aren't many places to dine on Broadway in the lower 20s. Komegashi was the only restaurant on its block. Adding to this problem was the fact that Komegashi's building was landmarked, so there were heavy restrictions on signage. Many people walked by the door without even realizing that there was a restaurant inside. (Slightly south of Komegashi, the still-popular Craftbar features a prominent sign.)

I wish the new owners better luck, but I'll miss Komegashi. I may even stop by next week to enjoy my "regular" status for the last time.

Heirloom (Closed as of 4/06)

Pure Food And Wine owner Matthew Kenney has added another establishment to his rapidly expanding vegetarian empire: Heirloom. Open just a week, Heirloom already seems to have its formula down pat. The servers are knowledgeable and friendly, the semicircle banquettes are comfy, and the food is artfully presented and sometimes startling in its creativity.

The restaurant is upscale, but it aims to comfort. Tonight, my companion and I were delighted to receive a complimentary basket of jalapeno hush puppies. Although I would have liked a bit more jalapeno, I did get the requisite kick from the accompanying spicy creme fraiche. (There was also a maple mustard butter.)

Although the portobello "foie gras" appetizer sounded appealing, I decided on the carrot soup. A spiral of creme fraiche, a hint of chive oil and a few chewy carrot dumplings had me tilting the bowl to collect the last few drops of soup. But I was especially enthralled with my companion's "tempura sushi." Gossamer slices of persimmon, artichoke and chayote were colorful stand-ins for sushi fish, and tempura haricot verts provided some crunch in the maki.

I enjoyed my entree, but my heart belonged to my companion's "seafood trio." This assortment of trumpet royale and bluefoot mushrooms was disguised as seared scallops, fried calamari and grilled fluke, which were served on a bed of garlicky sauteed spinach. The scallops in particular were eerily authentic. I ordered the moqueca, which is a Brazilian shrimp stew usually served with rice. Heirloom's veggie interpretation showcased delicious chunks of flash-fried housemade tofu, but excluded the rice; I missed it. (The accompanying banana pepper empanadas were a nice touch.)

My dessert was an impressive, cocoa-dusted tableau of chocolate-syrup-drenched black cocoa cake, espresso ice cream and crunchy roasted coffee bean bark. A layer of sweet chestnut spread inside the cake balanced the strong chocolate and coffee flavors. My companion ordered the raisin-studded, white-chocolate-iced spice cake. (I ate all of the caramelized walnuts on the side.) And in the interest of providing the most comprehensive review possible, I also tried the chocolate parfait, which was really a nut-sprinkled chocolate mousse atop some jelled grapes... I suppose I'm more accustomed to a cake foundation, but you'll never catch me complaining about chocolate.

Heirloom: 191 Orchard St., (212) 228-9888.

An Early Christmas Present

Yesterday threatened to elapse without one moment of deliciousness. But when I threw open the door, ready to collapse onto the couch, I noticed a mysterious package. That's funny, I thought; I hadn't ordered anything online in quite a while.

Upon closer inspection, the package appeared to be a gift, and indeed it was. A good friend (who is the proud keeper of a very enthusiastic dog) had sent me a box which contained the most amazing artisanal gingersnaps. Large chunks of sugarcoated candied ginger rendered these cookies absolutely irresistible. After downing one, I found myself reaching for another, even though they were huge. Then, I happily tumbled into bed and had sweet dreams.

Michel Cluizel Chocolat (THIS STORE CLOSED IN 2008)

Please pardon my recent lapse in posting; I've been busy consuming my own weight in chocolate. The opening of Michel Cluizel Chocolat is both a blessing and a curse, because my attempt to save room for dessert is now an attempt to save all room for dessert.

Ever since I first discovered the inconceivably chocolatey Grand Lait bar, I've been an unabashed devotee of Michel Cluizel chocolates. With a 45% cocoa content, this very special bar combines the deep complexity of dark chocolate with the richness of dairy. This is just one of the many treats at Cluizel's one-month-old cafe.

Michel Cluizel Chocolat is unapologetically adult-oriented. (Indeed, one of the guided chocolate tastings is marked "ADULTS ONLY.") There are several different "choctails" including a Chocolate Russian, and you can order assorted liqueurs in chocolate bonbon cups. This atmosphere, and the comfortable banquettes, create an aura of romance around the room. Today, one couple sitting next to me fed each other chocolate fondue. (My companion, regrettably, is on a diet.)

I didn't quite have the stamina for a 50-minute chocolate tasting, so I opted for one of the desserts. The menu included the afore-mentioned fondue accompanied by churros (perhaps taking a page from nearby Pipa's book), frozen white chocolate Chantilly, chocolate mousse, old-fashioned buttercream-frosted icebox cake, dark chocolate crullers, and chocolate-chestnut "decadent" framboise. I don't believe I've ever seen the word decadent used as a noun; I'll have to adopt this usage. Or, at the very least, I'd like to adopt the habit of eating this particular dessert on a daily basis. The tartness of the raspberry coulis was a perfect foil for a creamy dome of divinely rich chocolate-chestnut mousse. I also enjoyed a cup of Moka D'Oro coffee blended with Michel Cluizel hot chocolate mix.

Of course, I had to take a walk around the center display full of chocolate. I noticed that, like La Maison Du Chocolat, Michel Cluizel offers bouchees. These bonbons on steroids are offered in quite intriguing flavors; I chose the plum marmalade. I also bought some salted butter "Guerande" caramels and a 16-piece ballotin. I guess I just won't have room for dinner tonight!

Michel Cluizel Chocolat: 888 Broadway (inside ABC Carpet & Home), 646-602-3262.